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On the job

I recently joined the staff at Collinson Media and Events in Atlanta, Ga., as associate editor. I'll be writing and editing for Connect meetings magazine, Rejuvenate magazine and Groupaway magazine, among other things.

Plus...

Garden & Gun story

Read my latest story, a piece about Key West in Garden & Gun magazine (post below).

Not All Beaches Are Created Equal

Key West is a tropical island, complete with palm trees, hot sun and fabulous ocean views in almost every direction. What Key West doesn't have, though, are praise-worthy, toes-in-the-sand, amazing beaches. For those beaches, you'll have to venture further into the Caribbean to Antigua or Barbados. You could even stay up north, where Miami's South Beach gives you the space and sand you're looking for (and the people-watching, too).

But Key West is a place people come for the history, fishing, snorkeling and cuisine, and they usually make a stop one day at the beach. I'm not saying they're not worth a stop-over, because any trip to an island warrants a day at the beach. I'm just saying not all Key West beaches are created equal. Here's the lowdown on ones worth your time and the ones worth skipping.


Smathers Beach, November 2008

WORTH THE VISIT

Fort Zachary Taylor
This beach is located within a state park at the very west end of the island. It has fantastic sunset views and great facilities like restrooms, picnic tables and barbecues. The downside, though, is that the beach itself is more rocks than sand and isn't very comfortable for those who want to plop down a towel and bask under the sun. A good beach chair does the trick. Don't forget the cash; Fort Zach is the only beach in Key West that charges admission ($3.50 for a car with two people and 50 cents for each additional person in the car; $1.50 for pedestrians and bicyclists). Entrance through Truman Annex at Southard Street.

Smathers Beach
When people talk about the "big beach" in Key West, this is it. It's a half-mile stretch of sandy man-made beach on the south side of the island. This beach is as close to the South Beach vibe as you're going to get. In March and April, spring breakers flock to Smathers, which has restrooms, plenty of parking and nice volleyball courts. Street vendors sell food, and there are kiosks up and down the beach for watersports (think parasailing, snorkeling) and beach chair rentals. There's plenty of meter parking on the south side of Roosevelt Boulevard, but if you're smart, you'll pull into the large free parking lot on the north side of the street (ignore the no parking signs). There's a no alcohol policy on the beach, but I'm pretty sure I've seen a Corona or two poured into plastic cups out there.


Fort Zachary Taylor, April 2009

HIT OR MISS

Higg's Beach
Some locals never go to this beach, because they know its one big downside: homeless people. Higg's Beach has, in my opinion, the nicest sand on the island, but it also has great big, shaded picnic areas, which are usually filled with a large number of homeless persons as soon as the beach opens at 7 a.m. The further west you head on the beach toward Reynolds Street, the better it gets, and a long wooden pier sets a perfect scene for photo ops.

South Beach
A favorite of locals, South Beach is a tiny, sandy beach with shallow water and a concrete pier near the Southernmost Point tourist attraction. It's located at the southern end of Duval Street and tourists never really find their way to that end of the main drag. But keep in mind, most of the water that drains from the streets of Key West ends up where? You guessed it: South Beach.

Dog Beach
Canine lovers--and there are plenty of them in Key West--can't get enough of Dog Beach at the corner of Vernon and Waddell streets on the south side of the island (between Higg's and South beaches). If you don't have Fido in tow, don't bother heading there. The beach is small, rocky and slippery, and if it wasn't for the new sand the city dumps there every few weeks, I'm convinced it would be all rocks. But as the only beach on the island where dogs can swim, there's always at least a few pups frolicking in the Atlantic waters. The best part is that it's located next to Louie's Backyard, a terrific restaurant, that also has Louie's Afterdeck, a bar that sits right on the beach. Go to the bar and order a brew while your dog plays in the surf. And don't worry if the drenched pooch comes running onto the deck; dogs are allowed at the Afterdeck, too.


The view from Dog Beach, January 2009

NOT WORTH YOUR TIME

Rest Beach
A tiny beach with natural dunes next to the White Street Pier, Rest Beach is nothing to write home to mom about. The pier separates Rest and Higg's beaches, and the homeless people tend to gather equally at both. If you're looking for a fun day at the beach, pass on Rest Beach.

Simonton Street Beach
This beach at the end Simonton Street on the north side of the island is the only one on the Gulf of Mexico. Surrounded by two huge resorts, the wind is blocked here most of the time, but that's really its only good quality. Poor fishing, no space and frequent fights among the homeless that call this beach home means it's not a great place to hang out.

***

Key West has a lot going for it, and few people come here exclusively for a beach getaway. Lots of resorts operate their own private beaches, which are usually kept up quite nicely. The island has a problem with seaweed, too, and it can gather on beaches nightly. It's neither a pretty site nor a pleasant-smelling one. On windy days, beach goers suffer, especially on wide-open Smathers Beach. We admit, Key West isn't exactly a beach-lover's paradise, but it's still paradise ... with a few good beaches. And that seems to be enough.
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Libby Hoppe

  • writer | editor | photographer

      contact: libby@libbyhoppe.com
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        • The Weird Magic of Key West
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        • Welcome Shower
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        • When Time Stops, Then Starts Again
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        • Fresh Take - Key West
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        • Not All Beaches Are Created Equal
        • We're Gonna Have Fun, Fun, Fun
        • Don't Miss: Santiago's Bodega Key West
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