Key West is a tropical island, complete with palm trees, hot sun and fabulous ocean views in almost every direction. What Key West doesn't have, though, are praise-worthy, toes-in-the-sand, amazing beaches. For those beaches, you'll have to venture further into the Caribbean to Antigua or Barbados. You could even stay up north, where Miami's South Beach gives you the space and sand you're looking for (and the people-watching, too).

But Key West is a place people come for the history, fishing, snorkeling and cuisine, and they usually make a stop one day at the beach. I'm not saying they're not worth a stop-over, because any trip to an island warrants a day at the beach. I'm just saying not all Key West beaches are created equal. Here's the lowdown on ones worth your time and the ones worth skipping.


Smathers Beach, November 2008

WORTH THE VISIT

Fort Zachary Taylor
This beach is located within a state park at the very west end of the island. It has fantastic sunset views and great facilities like restrooms, picnic tables and barbecues. The downside, though, is that the beach itself is more rocks than sand and isn't very comfortable for those who want to plop down a towel and bask under the sun. A good beach chair does the trick. Don't forget the cash; Fort Zach is the only beach in Key West that charges admission ($3.50 for a car with two people and 50 cents for each additional person in the car; $1.50 for pedestrians and bicyclists). Entrance through Truman Annex at Southard Street.

Smathers Beach
When people talk about the "big beach" in Key West, this is it. It's a half-mile stretch of sandy man-made beach on the south side of the island. This beach is as close to the South Beach vibe as you're going to get. In March and April, spring breakers flock to Smathers, which has restrooms, plenty of parking and nice volleyball courts. Street vendors sell food, and there are kiosks up and down the beach for watersports (think parasailing, snorkeling) and beach chair rentals. There's plenty of meter parking on the south side of Roosevelt Boulevard, but if you're smart, you'll pull into the large free parking lot on the north side of the street (ignore the no parking signs). There's a no alcohol policy on the beach, but I'm pretty sure I've seen a Corona or two poured into plastic cups out there.


Fort Zachary Taylor, April 2009

HIT OR MISS

Higg's Beach
Some locals never go to this beach, because they know its one big downside: homeless people. Higg's Beach has, in my opinion, the nicest sand on the island, but it also has great big, shaded picnic areas, which are usually filled with a large number of homeless persons as soon as the beach opens at 7 a.m. The further west you head on the beach toward Reynolds Street, the better it gets, and a long wooden pier sets a perfect scene for photo ops.

South Beach
A favorite of locals, South Beach is a tiny, sandy beach with shallow water and a concrete pier near the Southernmost Point tourist attraction. It's located at the southern end of Duval Street and tourists never really find their way to that end of the main drag. But keep in mind, most of the water that drains from the streets of Key West ends up where? You guessed it: South Beach.

Dog Beach
Canine lovers--and there are plenty of them in Key West--can't get enough of Dog Beach at the corner of Vernon and Waddell streets on the south side of the island (between Higg's and South beaches). If you don't have Fido in tow, don't bother heading there. The beach is small, rocky and slippery, and if it wasn't for the new sand the city dumps there every few weeks, I'm convinced it would be all rocks. But as the only beach on the island where dogs can swim, there's always at least a few pups frolicking in the Atlantic waters. The best part is that it's located next to Louie's Backyard, a terrific restaurant, that also has Louie's Afterdeck, a bar that sits right on the beach. Go to the bar and order a brew while your dog plays in the surf. And don't worry if the drenched pooch comes running onto the deck; dogs are allowed at the Afterdeck, too.


The view from Dog Beach, January 2009

NOT WORTH YOUR TIME

Rest Beach
A tiny beach with natural dunes next to the White Street Pier, Rest Beach is nothing to write home to mom about. The pier separates Rest and Higg's beaches, and the homeless people tend to gather equally at both. If you're looking for a fun day at the beach, pass on Rest Beach.

Simonton Street Beach
This beach at the end Simonton Street on the north side of the island is the only one on the Gulf of Mexico. Surrounded by two huge resorts, the wind is blocked here most of the time, but that's really its only good quality. Poor fishing, no space and frequent fights among the homeless that call this beach home means it's not a great place to hang out.

***

Key West has a lot going for it, and few people come here exclusively for a beach getaway. Lots of resorts operate their own private beaches, which are usually kept up quite nicely. The island has a problem with seaweed, too, and it can gather on beaches nightly. It's neither a pretty site nor a pleasant-smelling one. On windy days, beach goers suffer, especially on wide-open Smathers Beach. We admit, Key West isn't exactly a beach-lover's paradise, but it's still paradise ... with a few good beaches. And that seems to be enough.

At least, you will if you pick up a copy of the the May issue of Austin Monthly magazine, which is packed full with 109 fun things to do in the summer in Austin. Cool swimming holes? Check. Fun Friday night art fairs? Check. Funky tours to see the city? Check. Whether you're new to Austin or you've lived there for 30 years, I promise you'll find at least a few things on this list you've never tried during the long, hot summer.



We can thank the famed artist Peter Max for the cover. His staff contacted us about Max designing a magazine cover, and we jumped at the chance. It's not every day you get the opportunity to have a world-class artist design something for your magazine. What makes it even better, though, is that I had the distinct pleasure to interview the man that set '60s Cosmic Art in motion. I learned that Max, even after decades of success, is still a humble man that spends at least eight hours each day in his studio, painting. And that's the main thing I'll take away from my interview with him, that even the most talented people have to work hard to continue improving in their crafts. Check out the story I wrote on Max for the magazine, below. And please, heed our advice and have some fun this summer.

Part of what makes Europe so appealing is that its people actually know how to live. If you've ever been there, you know what I mean. Work lands quite low on the priority list; friends, family, food and drink take precedence over making money. In Spain, this is especially true, as the cafes and boutiques close each afternoon for a siesta, and cena, or dinner, doesn't begin until well into the evening, around 10 p.m. Even when people do work, they work doing something they love: painting, crafting homemade cigars or running a wine and grocery shop, or a bodega.

I couldn't help but think about that relaxed way of life last night when I had dinner at Santiago's Bodega in Key West. Like the small, cozy streets of Europe that were carved well before cars, the road leading to Santiago's is quiet and calm. Located four blocks south of Duval on Petronia Street, it feels like you're headed to nowhere of importance when Santiago's pops up on a lonely neighborhood street. Few cars litter the street; most people walk or ride bicycles and scooters to the restaurant. Located on the first floor of what looks like an old Conch home, Santiago's tapas restaurant and wine bar makes you glad you came down the old street as people laughing, glasses clinking and the smell of seafood, roasted vegetables and fresh basil and thyme draws you in.



The restaurant is tiny. Inside, dinner seating for about two dozen fills the area left of the entry, while the right side is a wine bar with a few tall tables big enough for a handful of people. The two sides of the restaurant are divided by a big round table at the entrance with a large spray of tropical flowers and a collection of the night's featured wines, sherries and ports. Outside, another four tables fit snugly onto a small porch. My husband and I sat at a small table right next to the door; it felt almost as if we were in the middle of the walkway to the door (next time, I'll ask for an interior table or the corner table outside). Luckily, my husband made reservations, and they're needed. Even on a standard Thursday night, customers without a reservation had to wait for seating because there's just not enough to go around.



The space may be small, but the flavor of the food is not. The chefs infuse each bite of the tapas dishes with big, robust flavors (tapas is a Spanish word, which means eating many small appetizer-size dishes). I picked a white wine by the glass--Bex riesling; my husband ordered a Blue Moon brew. We skipped the salads and cold tapas and went straight for the hot options. We had the quesadillas, with cheddar and jack cheese, mango salso and cilantro. Each bite had as much flavor as a stacked piece of pizza. Also high on our taste list was the bacon-wrapped mushrooms, which filled my mouth with savory juices and a kick of pepper. The special, a puffed pastry filled with shrimp, crab and scallops (below), was easily my favorite dish of the night. We also tried the grouper, crusted with fennel seed, coriander and lemon pepper. I don't think I'll be ordering it again. Next time I'll be sure to start with a salad; I saw a few pass by on their way to other tables, and they looked tasty and surprisingly large in size.



I wish I could say the service was as impeccable as the food. In addition to our table feeling slightly out of the place, our server was also off his game. He stumbled over the specials, and failed to light the small candle on our table for a little extra light at dusk, so we ended up asking another server (who acted annoyed we'd bothered her). I will say, though, our server wasn't pushy when it came to ordering tapas. Some servers will encourage you to order up to seven or eight plates, but he was happy bringing us only the five we wanted. The service wasn't great, but it's not enough to keep us from going back. I've already picked out a few more dishes I want to try: the spanakopita, with spinach, feta and onion baked in a phyllo pastry with hollandaise sauce; the smoked salmon carpaccio with crostini, crème fraiche, capers and minced onions; and the avocado and pear salad, to start.



With prices ranging from $8 to $15 per dish, it's easy to rack up a bill of more than $50, simply for the food. But one thing that doesn't cost a penny is the pure enjoyment you get out of sitting back, relaxing with good food and good company, getting the most out of the moment. That's a lesson I brought home with me from Europe, and a lesson I was glad to be reminded of at Santiago's Bodega.

Yesterday was my birthday, and while I did pull in some fabulous loot from friends and family (for which I am ever so grateful), I can't help but think of a few things that are on on my absolute gift wish list. By absolute, I mean things I'm only dreaming about and would never expect to get--at least not this year.

The 10 things my husband needs to start saving up for or pulling some serious strings to make happen for me next year (in no particular order):

1. Tickets to the Kentucky Derby
2. This Sleepy Hollow rug from CB2 (that's no longer available, mind you)



3. A trip to Phuket, Thailand
4. A Mercury Design Studio in Key West
5. The return of Domino to newsstands
6. A big dining room table with Frances Elkins loop chairs



7. A closet filled with party dresses from Derek Lam, Zac Posen and Narcisco Rodriguez
8. A basket filled with bareMinerals makeup
9. Beautiful jewelry by Mingle Design



10. More time with my husband, friends and family


You'd think that last one wouldn't be so hard, but when you live hundreds of miles from civilization, it's harder than you think.

P.S. At Austin Monthly, we ask local fashion personalities about their top 10 must-haves, too. I loved the answers clothing designer Linda Asaf gave me. Check out the profile on wrote on her, below.